The General Module
Posted by murmini Sun, 31 Dec 2006 10:57:34 GMT
A few posts ago, I looked at the bus systems within the MINI electronics and how it lays the groundwork for the specific modules that send and receive communications along the data paths. Now its time to review the function of the General Module.
The General Module or as it is often referred to as the Body Control Module or BC-1. It is the module that manages a number of specific vehicle systems and is located behind the passenger kick panel just in front of the door.
It has two primary K-bus connections, one to the Instrument cluster and one to a network bus. This body control module is a consolidation of a number of smaller system modules that control and monitor the following systems: drive-away protection, locking systems, rain-sensing wipers, sun roof, park distance control, mirror control, audio systems, navigations system, keyless entry, power windows, xenon headlamp control using the leveling sensors, run-flat warning system, all interior lighting, and the multi-function steering wheel. The control module also manages the anti-theft alarm systems if installed and the keyless entry system and its RF receiver.
Although the K-bus is a fairly slow, it is event driven. Messages sent out by the Body Control module have the highest priority on this bus and will override other K-bus traffic . As noted in previous discussion, messages are distributed to all devices but only the specific module being addressed responds to the unique message and subsequently react. This is similar to a computer network where messages are sent to all devices, but only a specific IP address, like a printer, actually responds to the command. As seen in an earlier article here, the General Module is connected to both the K-Bus and Instrument Control Cluster, which in turn is a part of the D and DS-2 Bus infrastructure.
The General Module manages the lock/unlock functions, tailgate release, fuel filler cap and convenience opening of windows and sun-roof, when you hold the door unlock button down for more than five seconds. The drive-away protection or electronic immobilizer - referred to as EWS or Electronic Watchdog System - makes it impossible for the engine to be started by any method other than using the specific keys provided with the vehicle. This operates by matching a primary code that is programmed into a chip set, located in the vehicle's key and into the General Module. A secondary code is changed every time the vehicle is started and stored in the key each time. If they do not match, the engine management control module and the starter are disabled. The key communicates back and forth with the system by way of a transponder in the key and a ring antenna that surrounds the steering lock cylinder. If you bring the body of your key up close to the ignition switch, with the driver's door open, you can hear the familiar chime, even though the key is not in the ignition.
This drive-away protection system can support up to 10 keys for one vehicle. Only a MINI dealer can provide replacement keys and is capable of canceling the electronic authorization codes, in the event of a stolen vehicle being recovered and re-keyed using the BMW scan and diagnostic tools DISplus, GT1 or MoDiC
The General Module, is a sophisticated device capable of controlling all of the body electronics and has an integrated diagnostic system capable of reporting a number of faults to the OBD connector located in the driver's foot well. This is the connector that your MINI dealer ties into to conduct fault location and analysis and fix an ailing MINI.
Wow, I didn’t know that the system was that complex. Great post Murray. Happy New Year. cheers.
Interesting Murray … I hate to sound like I’m disagreeing, but I though the key immobilization was in the engine computer itself (maybe as well?)
Ian the management of the EWS or Electronic Watchdog System, is in the General Body Module, but when activated it kills the starter motor and also prevents the engine computer from operating. So the ECU is preventing the car from running but the instructions that disable it come from the General Body Module.
As always Murray – super job :)
Excellent documentation – but I’m unclear on your statement “when you hold the door unlock button down for more than five seconds”. What exactly does this do?
When you hold the door unlock button down the windows will roll down, at least on my 2005 MCS. That feature is either not available or not programmed into my 2002 MC.
The ‘unlock’ button on the key, (if programmed) when held down for 5 seconds will roll down both windows and open the sunroof if applicable. This is part of the delivery programming the dealer can do and is called Convenience Opening. A note on this: While the lock button will not close them, if you put the key in the lock and hold it in the locked position it closes both of the windows and the sunroof.
My 2005 MC ragtop’s clock speeds up by about 4-5 mins in a week or so after I adjust the time accordingly. So I have to constantly reset the clock, annoying.
Is this tied in with the bus system? What is the cure?
This has been a problem for some time now. Here is the TSB referring to the issue and the fix. It has been diagnosed as an inaccurate clock crystal calibration and the cure is to replace the entire instrument cluster or IKE. Hope this helps.
Great info Murrary. Would that be no charge at the dealership? Thank you in advance.
I would think it would be a warranty claim pending your warranty status but check with your dealer.
The clock in the center speedo of my ‘05 MCS gained minutes/week. It was replaced under warranty (for no cost) and has worked flawlessly since.
Cheers, Murray and Kevin. I’ve finally contacted my dealership to set up an appointment … it’s about time.
Murray,
Chad from MINI of Charleston here…
Just to clarify some of what you said. Ian the management of the EWS or Electronic Watchdog System, is in the General Body Module, but when activated it kills the starter motor and also prevents the engine computer from operating. So the ECU is preventing the car from running but the instructions that disable it come from the General Body Module.”
The EWS is actually a seperate module that is on the k-bus along with GM. The key when inserted into the ignition switch passes through the toroidial coil which is mounted to the outside of the Ign. lock cylinder, sends its code to the EWS module which matches the code and Tells the DME that it is ok to activate the starter.
The only function that the key has to do with the GM is for remote functions which are received via the back glass antenna/radio antenna in Pre 05 cars and via the Rearview mirror on 05 and later models.
Sorry I missed your visit the other day…I was swamped.
Chad
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Thanks for clarifying that Chad. I actually documented the EW3 as being a separate module back in my BUS article. I bet you have much better wiring diagrams than I do! Thank you again.
Interesting information on the “hold the door unlock button down the windows will roll down”. I thought I had a problem whereby every 4-5 weeks I would go out to my ‘05 MCS and the windows would be halfway down and the sunroof would be open. I assumed it was a design glitch in the ‘module’. I probably depressed the unlock button unawares in my pocket as I walked away. I took my MCS in for service to fix this, and they didn’t connect this as the possible cause. It sounds like I can have the “Convenience Opening” feature turned off or at least I can be careful with the keys in my pocket! Thank you!!
I have had severe problems with 2 MINIs now and wonder whether they are related to the General Module. My last MINI 2004 Cooper S decided at some point to not start anymore. Meaning: the starter did not start at all. I had the car looked at repeatedly, it worked for a day or two, then exactly the same problem.
Tired of this, I upgraded to a MINI Cooper GP S and what would you know: 3 months later exactly the same problem! Looking through the internet I have not found many post with similar complaints. Any ideas what to do? Is there a way to disable the security feature (which I think most likely is the cause of this starter shutdown)?
Thanks
I really think that you should take this to a MINI dealer and have them run a full analysis on the car’s systems. There is no way that such a fault can be diagnosed remotely like this. If there is an issue with the EWS security system, then an anaylsis with the dealer’s DISplus, GT1 or MoDiC will bring it to light.
My 2003 Mini’s windows often do not allow the door to close when they are rolled up all the way. I have taken it to the dealer four times, and they claimed to have replaced the window motor twice, but gradually the problem reappears. Now the window is squeaking when rolled up or down. Any advice?
Wanda, the windows should drop very slightly as the door is closed or opened then immediately go back up to seal. This has been a BMW feature for many years and is controlled by the General Module. It sounds like the replacement of window motors is not fixing the problem as they do not control this feature in anyway. I would encourage the dealer to look at the data coming off the General Module, something that they should be able to read with their DISplus, GT1 or MoDiC analyzer (not quite sure which one).
Unfortunately, it looks like you are out of warranty but if possible, they should try to replace the GM and see if that resolves the issue. I am not sure how expensive the module is, but at least if they could A/B it with one that is known as working fine. I am sorry not to be of more help, but these issues are very difficult to locate sometime and not always the most obvious item is at fault. By the way, if they have replaced the window motor, then they should have conducted a motor initialization routine. You can do this by holding the window up button ‘on’ for five seconds after the window has been raised all the way up.
Regarding the squeak, it sounds like the guide that the window runs in is ‘dry’ – you may try to wipe some silicone lubricant on the edge of the window
MCS 2004, passenger power window just stopped working. Everything else is working fine. Is this an isolated circuit with own fuse? The window now doesn’t go up or down when door is opened or shut the way it should. Suggestions? I’m four hours for any dealer!
There is a fuse for each window – see here. I would check that first. F1 (LH) and F19 (RH).
Hi there everyone, I have a 2004 MC purchased recently which I received 2 remote keys with, a cut one which works and an uncut one which doesn’t. I have been told the one that doesn’t work comes from another vehicle and cannot be recoded to my MC because I don’t have the original key code. Is there anything I can do about this and is there anywhere I can go to get a wiring diagram. Any advice would be greatly appreciate as I don’t like letting small things like this get the better of me. Thanks in advance. RR
Rich: The electronic immobilization – EWS System – is complex and designed to sense a wireless signal from your key via a ring antenna that surrounds the ignition switch. This means that your key has to be programmed, by your dealer. I have read some info about programming the key yourself and you can find that reference here. If that doesn't work, talk to your MINI service shop and see what they can do. Regarding wiring diagrams, there are a full set in the Bentley Manual, though they tend to be more like network diagrams as the varios modules connect via the K-Bus, CAN-Bus and D-Bus etc.
Why would holding the DSC button down cause a burning, smoking situation in my 2006 Cooper S? Also, after this event, I lost many functions on the dash including the speeodometer, the TAC, gas gauge, and all fans (heat, defrost, air). Is this a fault in design? Why isn’t there a fuse system that trips off instead of allowing wires or whatever it is that burned to burn? I thought the car was going to catch fire. This also happened once before to me, in the winter while driving. It took almost a month for the shop to figure out what needed to replaced. Today, this happened again when I was dropping the car off to be detailed. The windows were open and the guy went to close them and apparently hit the DSC toggle by mistake instead of the window and I smelled and then saw the smoke billow out from under the dash.
Sarah: This issue is serious and beyond the scope of analyzing remotely. There would obviously appear to be some extraordinary electrical issue at work here. Yes, you are right in thinking that all voltage lines are fused, but something very untoward is occurring here. There were some heat-shield issues causing damage to wiring harnesses, but it was manifesting itself as various warning lights illuminating and some loss of power to the steering pump. Certainly nothing like you describe. Work with your service representative at your dealer and encourage them to follow up with MINI should then be unable to resolve your issue. Good Luck and let us know how this is resolved.
Inside my BC-1 two of the control cards, the ones controling the ignition, the climate control, the right back stop light, and some other features, are burned. They got like that because a very heavy crash on that side of the vehicle, the frontal passenger´s side (2004 mini cooper S). I would like to know how can I do to get this fixed and where can I buy the spare parts. My problem is that the vehicle is located in a country where there is no Mini service. I would like to buy the parts in the USA and bring them to my country. Please help me with some ideas. Thank you.
I am fairly certain that the only way to get a replacement is to buy a whole new BC-1, at least from the dealer network. Now while there a not that many scrapped MINIS out there, you may contact used car parts dealers such as autopartswarehouse or partshotline. Register with them what you are looking for and see what they can do or advise. Good luck!
I’ve just got an 07 MC with NO remote, just the round unit with a key in it. I can buy a remote with key from another car on EBAY, but will I be able to to reprogram the thing or can MINI reprogram a used remote from another car? Thanks!
Jeff: I am not at all sure how the keys are coded on the R56 but I am pretty sure you will not be able to do this without getting it programmed by your MINI dealer due to the EWS system. Give your dealer a call and see what they can tell you about re-programming a new key.
Just wondering if you could help. I have the problem of the dealership not being able to read my car’s ECU from the drivers side OBDII port. Could the problem be the OBD plug itself (The part you connect to with your OBDII scan tool)? If not, is the BC1 the likely culprit? Could an aftermarket window auto-up circuit board cause the interference that is preventing the dealers from reading the car’s diagnostics? The reason this has become an issue is because my Service Engine Soon light came on and the dealership techs cannot read the ECU to tell me what is wrong. There suggestion is to replace the OBD plug and wiring. If that does not work, they are saying I could possible need a new ECU. Any info you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Jack
Jack, sorry to hear your having such problems. I really would not know where to start or attempt to diagnose what has happened. Any of the things you have mentioned could be at fault. I doubt its the AutoUp window unit though. Pain as it is, you could always disconnect it to completely eliminate it. Its going to be a case of trial and error. Unfortunately, the time involved and the potential of replacing parts to exclude them could be costly. I think your going to have to work with the dealer. Somethings are easier to change than others so maybe they could ‘lend’ a replacement unit to test if thats the culprit. In part 1 of this article, there is a pinout of the OBDII connector if that helps. Unfortunately these days, diagnostics and repairs are of the “test” “read error codes” “replace” variety and most if not all of the engineering or technical experience has been removed from the process. Plead with your service manager for a little more help and let me know what happens.
Thanks. I will keep you posted. I went for the easiest fix first. I ordered a new OBD plug. My hope is that I have a loose pin or bad plug. Thanks again.
I am having some issues with my ‘04S and maybe you can tell me if I am having module issues. My passenger side window did not work when I purchased the car in September. The Suzuki dealership where I purchased the car replaced the motor with a brand new MINI motor. Well, it worked for a month then stopped working. Sometimes when I start the car the ac does not power on. I turn it off and back on and the ac works. Once the clock display did not work, but worked once I powered off then on. Now this Wednesday my driver’s side window stopped working. Oh, and two weeks ago I spent a day with the doors locking and unlocking while I drove. The doors would lock and unlock by themselves and I couldn’t lock the boot and passenger door with the key. This issue remedied itself, but then a few days ago this other window died. Oh, and I don’t know if this helps or if this is isolated from the issue, but the door locking thing came the day after I got caught out on I-10 in a hailstorm! While cruising on the interstate at 15 to 23 mph I had the most terrible time getting the car into lower gears. If I was in neutral, I had to use both hands to force it into 1st and then 2nd. I am at my wit’s end with this little car that I otherwise adore. Do I have a module issue and am I going to have to pay Tom Bush MINI thousands of dollars to fix it? Thanks so much for any advice you can give.
Beth: it is obviously pretty much impossible to figure out remotely exactly what is going on, however I might make a few suggestions.
It does sound as if the General Module is playing up. One issue I have seen documented with some frequency is caused by water getting into the passenger side and subsequently into the module, which is located on the passenger side in the footwell behind the right-hand cover. If you see any sign of damp carpets or the like that could be it. You had mentioned how the car got a bit soaked in a hail storm.
Beyond that, they really need to get it up on the BMW/MINI analysis machine and see if they can read any error logs or stored codes. I know that costs :30 – 1hr labour but its really the only way to go. It could be a faulty module, or a poor or water logged connection.
I hope this helps.
little MINI made a trip to Tom Bush today and I was a little freaked out. The diagnostic returned errors with the general module as well as other errors (one such error had to do with moisture, go figure! ha). They traced all errors to their sources and were able to discern the issue came from a bad battery. The battery the person before me put into her was the wrong size, wrong voltage, wrong everything. It was causing the system to short out. The reading on the battery was 7 volts. It is amazing I was able to get around. They did tell me both my window motors are shot. This is disapointing because the one was “replaced” in October from the dealership where I bought her. They confirmed today this was not the truth. They basically just gave her a quick fix to get her to work for a bit. The service advisor I dealt with today taught me the same quick fix and perhaps I can put off the new window motors for a bit! So 5 hours and $244 later I have a newfound love for the folks at Tom Bush. Thanks for all the advice given here. It helped me not feel like such an idiot going into a car dealership!
Thanks Beth. Its always so nice to hear the outcome of problems that people post here. Glad to have been of some assistance.